If you're tired of bottoming out on every little bump, swapping in a dnm rear shock crf110 is probably the smartest move you can make for your pit bike. Let's be honest for a second: the stock suspension on the Honda CRF110 was designed for a ten-year-old who weighs maybe 80 pounds on a heavy day. If you're an adult—or even just a fast kid—trying to send it over a tabletop or blast through some backyard whoops, that factory shock is going to feel like a wet noodle. It pogo-sticks, it clunks, and it definitely doesn't inspire much confidence when you're pinned in third gear.
I've spent way too much time bouncing around on stock CRF110s, and the difference a decent aftermarket shock makes is night and day. DNM has kind of carved out this perfect middle ground in the market. You aren't spending $600 on a high-end boutique shock, but you aren't stuck with the "garbage-tier" eBay specials either. It's that sweet spot of performance and price that just works for most of us.
That Annoying Stock Bounce
We've all been there. You hit a small jump, and instead of the bike soaking up the landing, it kicks the rear end up like a disgruntled mule. That's because the stock CRF110 shock has almost zero rebound damping. It's essentially just a spring in a tube. Once it compresses, it wants to snap back to its original length as fast as humanly possible. This is why the bike feels so unstable at high speeds or over choppy terrain.
When you switch to a dnm rear shock crf110, you're introducing actual oil and gas damping into the equation. The bike stops behaving like a toy and starts feeling like a real motorcycle. The "kick-back" disappears, and the rear wheel actually stays glued to the ground. It's not just about comfort; it's about traction. If your tire is bouncing in the air, you aren't putting power down, and you definitely aren't turning effectively.
Adjustability That Actually Works
One of the coolest things about the DNM unit is the adjustability. Most of these shocks come with a rebound adjustment knob, usually located at the bottom. This is huge. If you find the bike is still a little "springy," you can just click that dial and slow the shock down. It's one of those things where you'll want to carry a small screwdriver in your pocket for the first few laps, making adjustments until it feels just right.
Then there's the preload. The shock comes with a threaded body and a locking collar, so you can really dial in the sag. If you're a heavier rider—say, 180 to 220 pounds—you'll likely want to crank that preload down a bit to keep the bike from sitting too low in the stroke. The 350lb spring rate is usually the "gold standard" for adult riders on these bikes. It's stiff enough to handle big hits but still supple enough to track over small rocks and roots without rattling your teeth out.
What's in the Box?
When your dnm rear shock crf110 arrives, you'll notice right away that it's beefier than the stock part. Usually, they come with a nice gold-anodized body and a black or red spring. It looks "factory," which is always a nice bonus. The build quality is surprisingly solid. The welds are clean, the threads on the body are smooth, and the bushings are usually pre-installed.
Depending on where you buy it, it might come with different mounting hardware. Most of the time, it's a direct bolt-on for the CRF110 (2013-present models). However, I always tell people to double-check their spacers. Sometimes you might need to reuse the stock bolts, but generally, the DNM slides right into the frame and swingarm mounts without much fuss.
The Installation Process (And Why It's Easy)
Installing this thing is a thirty-minute job, even if you're not particularly "mechanical." You don't need a full shop or fancy tools. You just need a way to get the rear wheel off the ground. A milk crate works, but a proper lift stand is way safer. Once the bike is up, you take the pressure off the swingarm, undo the top bolt, undo the bottom bolt, and the old shock just falls out.
The only "trick" is making sure you don't lose the spacers. When you slide the dnm rear shock crf110 into place, you might have to wiggle the swingarm up and down to get the holes to line up. I like to put a little bit of waterproof grease on the mounting bolts before sliding them back in. It keeps things from squeaking and makes it way easier to take apart later if you ever need to. Torque them down, and you're basically done.
Real-World Riding Impressions
The first time you sit on the bike after the install, you'll notice it doesn't sag nearly as much as it used to. It feels taller and more "planted." But the real magic happens when you actually hit the dirt.
I remember the first time I took a CRF110 with a DNM shock through a set of rollers. Normally, I'd be bracing for that "clunk" as the shock bottomed out, followed by the seat hitting me in the butt on the rebound. With the DNM, the bike just soaked it up. It stayed level. I could actually stay on the gas through sections where I used to have to let off. It makes the bike feel much more capable, almost like a mini-motocross bike rather than a play bike.
On jumps, the difference is even more noticeable. You can actually "preload" the suspension on the face of the jump to get more lift, and the landing feels plush rather than jarring. It gives you the confidence to try bigger lines or go faster into corners because you know the rear end isn't going to do anything unpredictable.
Is It Better Than the Competition?
Look, if you have unlimited money, an Elka Stage 4 or a Fox Float is going to be better. They have more sophisticated valving and better heat dissipation for long motos. But for 90% of pit bike riders, those are overkill. You're looking at double or triple the price of the dnm rear shock crf110.
For the guy who just wants to play around in the woods, race some backyard motos with friends, or do some occasional trail riding, the DNM is the "value king." It's a massive upgrade over stock for a fraction of the price of the "pro" setups. It's durable, too. I've seen guys beat on these shocks for seasons on end without them leaking or losing their damping.
A Few Things to Watch Out For
While I'm a big fan of this shock, it's not literally perfect. You do have to keep an eye on the mounting bolts. Because these bikes vibrate a lot, and you're probably jumping them, things can loosen up. I'm a big believer in using a little blue Loctite on the shock bolts just for peace of mind.
Also, make sure you choose the right spring rate. If you're a lighter rider (under 130 lbs), the 350lb spring might actually feel a little too stiff. You might want to look for the 250lb version if you want a plusher ride. But for most adults, the 350lb is the way to go. It keeps the bike up in the stroke and prevents that annoying "stinkbug" look where the rear end sits too low.
Final Thoughts
At the end of the day, the dnm rear shock crf110 is the single best "bang-for-your-buck" modification you can do to a Honda pit bike. It transforms the bike from a bouncy toy into a legitimate machine that can handle some abuse. Whether you're trying to keep up with your kids or just trying to show your buddies who the backyard champion is, having a rear end that actually stays on the ground is a massive advantage.
It's easy to install, looks great, and won't break the bank. If you're still riding on that factory pogo stick, do yourself (and your lower back) a favor and make the swap. You'll wonder why you waited so long to do it. Just get the shock, spend ten minutes dialing in the rebound, and go have some fun. That's what these bikes are for anyway, right?